Skiing the 4 peaks of Serre Chevalier

Four peaks, good company and lunch in Briançon

There’s something rather satisfying about looking back along a valley and thinking, “We’ve skied all the way from over there.” Particularly when you’re sitting down to a good lunch with the people you’ve done it with.

This is one of those days. Starting in Monêtier, we work our way across Serre Chevalier, collecting big views and some lovely skiing before dropping into Briançon for lunch. Afterwards, there’s a choice: ski back across the mountains or let the valley bus do the work.

Our group has a healthy mixture of styles. Some like linking neat, unhurried turns; others consider every wide piste an invitation to stretch their legs. Everyone needs to be comfortable on reds, but we certainly don’t all need to ski them at the same speed.

First, the important business of breakfast

The day begins at Chalet-Hotel Charlotte with a proper breakfast and the usual discussion about layers, sunshine and whether anyone has seen somebody else’s gloves.

I’m keen to get us moving for the first lift. An early start gives us time to enjoy the journey, stop for coffee and still leave the option of skiing home. It also makes that second helping at breakfast feel entirely justified.

After a short walk, we collect our boots and skis, meet our Ski Concierge and head for Bachas. Before setting off, we check the day’s conditions on Snow-Forecast.com. All our Ski Miquel Ski Concierges have access to the detailed forecast, so just ask if there’s anything you’d like to know. We also check the closing times of the linking lifts. Particularly important later is Vallons: remembering it now saves an interesting conversation over dessert.

Up to Yret

Bachas carries us out of the village, then the Yret chair takes us higher into a landscape that feels properly mountainous. The trees fall away, the ridges sharpen and everyone starts reaching for their phone. For photos, I should add, rather than scrolling.

I always like this moment. We’ve barely started skiing and the day already feels like an adventure.

The red Yret gives us our first proper turns. We take the opening steadily, find our feet and settle into our own rhythms. I stop where there’s room for everyone to gather, watching the last skiers come down against that magnificent backdrop. On a clear morning it takes a little persuasion to get us moving again.

The slopes beyond the piste can look tempting, but the south-facing off-piste is an outing for suitable conditions, the right equipment and a qualified local guide. Today, we have a whole ski area to cross and lunch to earn.

Cucumelle: the run everyone wants to ski again

Next comes the Cucumelle chair and one of my favourite parts of the day.

Cucumelle begins with a slightly steeper entrance, just enough to make everyone pay attention, before opening into a glorious, generous sweep of piste. In good snow, much of it has the feel of a friendly blue, although it remains a red and deserves respect when the surface is firm.

It’s lovely skiing for a mixed group. There’s room to take your time, link unhurried turns and enjoy the mountain, while the keener skiers can make the most of the space without forgetting who else is sharing it. We spread out, regroup and immediately begin the discussion about whether we could squeeze in another lap.

Fresh snow makes the slopes beside the piste, particularly to skier’s left, look very inviting for a few powder turns. Make sure you have the right equipment and a qualified guide if you don’t know the terrain and conditions well. Our article on off-piste guiding in Serre Chevalier is a useful place to start.

The hike or skin towards Tête de la Balme and its west-facing descent is another adventure altogether, to plan separately with a guide. Today I’m keeping our group together: Briançon is waiting, and I’ve already started thinking about lunch.

Across the mountain, with coffee on the way

From Cucumelle, Côte Chevalier takes us up again. We follow blue Combes, green Grand Serre and blue Vallons towards the Prorel chair.

This travelling part of the day shows just how big Serre Chevalier is. Each lift opens another view, each descent takes us into a different corner of the mountain, and the morning finds a lovely rhythm.

The gentler stretches give everyone a chance to ease off and catch up. We regroup at junctions; I’d always rather spend a minute admiring the view than ten minutes searching for a blue jacket halfway down the wrong piste.

Coffee with a view

After Prorel, we follow Chauvet and stop for coffee. By now breakfast feels a distant memory, and nobody takes much convincing when I suggest finding a seat.

Briançon lies below us, with mountains stretching towards the Italian border and Montgenèvre. On a clear day this is one of those views that turns a quick coffee into a considerably longer one. We trace the skyline, pick out where we’ve been and take another photograph. Judging by the smiles, this particular delay has unanimous approval.

That’s the pleasure of a day like this. There’s good skiing, of course, but also the feeling that we’re going somewhere together. Eventually, gloves go back on and poles are collected. Lunch is downhill from here, with some excellent skiing still to come.

Down to Briançon

The Croix de la Nore chair sets us up for Grande Gargouille and then Vauban, both reds, taking us down towards Briançon. I like to keep a little energy in reserve for this descent: we let everyone ski at their own pace and gather as the town becomes more distinct below.

It’s a long way down, and the snow can change as we lose height: crisp higher up, softer lower down on a sunny spring day. We adjust our turns accordingly. Then, at last, it’s skis off, goggles up and the very agreeable business of deciding where to eat.

Lunch in Briançon: crêpes or something rather special?

I like to keep lunch within easy walking distance of the Prorel gondola. Briançon’s old town deserves a visit, but the uphill exploration is rather more appealing in normal shoes on another day.

Here are four options near the bottom station. Walking times are approximate: allow a little extra for ski boots, snow and a group that has suddenly remembered it’s hungry.

Lunch near Prorel at a glance

• Mistigri – Le S — 5 minutes’ walk. Relaxed, arty café and crêperie serving savoury galettes and sweet crêpes.
• Le Pêché Gourmand — 5 minutes’ walk. Refined, creative seasonal cooking for a leisurely lunch.
• L’Atelier du Cachalot — 6 minutes’ walk. Informal, creative spot with a changing menu and Asian influences.
• La Brasserie du Casino — 3 minutes’ walk. Cosy brasserie serving French favourites with regional and Italian influences.

Walking times are from the bottom of Prorel. Allow extra time in ski boots, and check lunch opening hours before setting off.

Read our full article on Lunch in Briançon when skiing.

For a group, I’d book ahead and check winter lunch opening times. If we’re planning to ski home, I also keep an eye on the clock: Vallons won’t stay open just because the pudding looks good.

We settle in, loosen our boots and begin the important discussion about the morning’s best run. Cucumelle gets several votes; Yret has the scenery vote; somebody claims the best skiing happened after coffee. It’s a happy argument to have.

Before another round of coffees, we make our decision. A leisurely lunch and a return on skis can work together, provided the clock, conditions and the group’s pace agree.

Home by bus: a perfectly respectable finish

If your legs have done enough, or lunch has become a rather leisurely affair, the bus makes an excellent finish to the day.

From the Prorel stop in Briançon, take Line 6 towards Le Monêtier-les-Bains, travelling back through Chantemerle and Villeneuve. I rather enjoy watching the mountains pass through the window and picking out where we’ve been skiing.

Timetables change with the seasons. Check the Serre Chevalier bus information and timetable links in English closer to your holiday and again before heading out that morning. The Line 6 operator timetable shows the currently available service dates, so make sure you select the timetable covering your visit.

The Charlotte team can confirm the return stop by the chalet-hotel, leaving us free to concentrate on dessert. Whichever way we get home, we’ve already had a rather good day.

Skiing home: one more journey across the mountains

For those returning on skis, Prorel 1 and 2 carry us back up. We take green Pelvoux towards the Rocher Blanc chair, then choose red Saludes or blue Myrtilles according to how everyone’s legs are feeling.

I favour a gentle restart. After a long lunch, it can take a few turns to persuade your knees that the table wasn’t their final destination for the afternoon.

We continue via Vallons to the Combes chair, then follow blue Génépi towards green Retour Fréjus. Pay attention to this turning. Miss it and you can find yourself needing another ride up Côte Chevalier to try again. Early in the day that’s a minor detour; late in the afternoon it’s time we would rather keep. We regroup, read the signs and make sure everyone takes the same route.

Vallons: the chair that matters

Vallons is our last crucial linking lift towards Monêtier. Its closing time changes through the season, so we confirm it that morning and aim to arrive with a comfortable margin.

Once we’re sitting on that chair, there’s a particular satisfaction in knowing we’ve made the connection. We still have the final descent into Monêtier to enjoy, but the journey has come together: the mountain views, the skiing, the lunch and the whole group heading home.

If time starts to look tight, we change the plan while the village descents are still open. Ski down to a suitable valley stop and catch Line 6 towards Le Monêtier-les-Bains. There’s no prize for racing the closing lifts. An après-ski stop in Villeneuve or Chantemerle can soften any disappointment, followed by the simple bus ride back to Charlotte, with a stop just outside our front door.

Back at the chalet-hotel, boots come off and the best-run debate starts again. Four mountain high points, a journey along the valley and a proper lunch with friends: that’s a day I’d happily do again. Cucumelle still gets my vote.

If you fancy making a similar day part of your holiday, our Serre Chevalier resort page has more about staying at Charlotte and skiing with Ski Miquel.